El
cheapo cell phone starts buzzing at 4:30 AM, perched on top of an electrical outlet that protrudes from the wall... classy. Fortunately its an alarm, not a random
phone call. Roll out of bed to the sound of Argelia making food next door, all
of 20 feet away. As first light begins to creep over the hills in the valley, rufous-naped
wrens and clay-colored thrushes belt out their morning songs. Water on the boil
for coffee as I get dressed. Once it’s through the brewing bag and into the
Thermos, I slip on my rubber boots and swish through the wet grass on the
soccer field on my way to meet with Yovani at 5AM for devotions at the church.
He’s already there when I arrive at 4:55AM. Apparently he’s been there for an
hour since he set his phone’s clock wrong (time doesn’t automatically sync
here). He’s remarkably less frustrated than I would have been with a similar
mistake. At 5AM on the dot, Pablo strolls in. We spend 40 minutes sharing
scripture, prayer, coffee, and breakfast bread before we each head towards our
respective work, each of us a little more encouraged and caffeinated than when
we pried our eyes open. Yovani is weeding pineapple fields today and Pablo is
off to a 24-hour shift at a cell phone tower an hour’s bike ride away outside
of Santa Lucia. I’m headed back through the wet grass for the morning chores.
I grab
the pail and milk the goat up at her new milking stand at the top of the yard, then come
back down to feed and water the dog, cat, and (presently…) 23 chickens. I grab
the eggs and milk and slip off my boots before coming back in to quickly
pasteurize the milk. Fortunately it rained last night, so I won’t have to water
the garden. Stacey’s up now and has a nice hot breakfast on the table (what a
woman). I scarf that down, change into clothes that don’t smell like a petting zoo, fix my hair (haha), kiss my girls and drive out our dirt and grass driveway. On my way down the
hill I remember (all of a sudden) that I’m having brake issues and need to
leave the car with a mechanic - like today. As usual, I pick up a carload of LomiteƱans walking
down the hill, my neighbor Antonio’s sombrero does a fine job filling the top
half of the car. I’m not worried about not having the car today since Fredy
will be able to take me into work. Just kidding. I arrive and find out that
some evil virus has possessed his innards, and he won’t be going anywhere more than five feet away from a toilet. I
walk down to the highway and jump on a CosteƱos bus that’s already filled to
capacity and stand in the back where everyone’s curious eyeballs were also located. We
arrive in La Guama. I pay my 20 lempira and jump into a little green three wheeled
moto-taxi for my 15 lempira ride to the office.
Fairly
normal day at the HTH Community Development office. Meet with a group of North
Americans visiting a couple of communities. Fight with internet for two hours
(literally); meet with our Honduran director; drink three cups of coffee (grown
across the road from the office). Work on post-project reports, financial
transparency issues, and leave at 4:30PM to head into Santa Cruz (now in the
Comm Dev truck thankfully loaned to me for a couple of days). Stop alongside
the road to buy this pretty little fold-up guanacaste wood table that I’m now typing
on. Talk to the table vendor/new friend about ways to propagate a couple of
plants from leaf cuttings.
Stop
at first of the three ATMs in Santa Cruz, but it’s down. Fortunately number two
of three is up and running. Stop by Poultry 2 (concerningly their motto is…
‘It’s not just chicken.’) to put in an order for fried chicken to go (yum).
Head to the market to pick up load of fresh fruit and veggies to offset the
upcoming grease intake before scooting up to the dimly-lit, strangely-stocked,
and perpetually-reorganized supermarket to search for the rest of our daily
sustenance in this week’s exciting new store layout. What is the need to move
tomato sauce every week? Is it just to mess with the gringos? Head out of Santa Cruz.
Stop by Fredy’s to check on him (he’s at least moving, but pretty pale). Drop
off some cash for the mechanic to go into the big city tomorrow to buy the parts.
Finally
get home! Eat yummy fried chicken with Stacey and start getting Alida ready for
bed before the inevitable “HOLA KAHLEB!” happens. This time it’s Javier with a
nice sack of chicken crap (now in the barrel making manure tea for this week
in the garden). We chat for a while, and I repay his thoughtfulness with a
couple of tomato plants and some cilantro seeds. As we talk, a drunk teenager
from Los Caminos walks through the front gate and onto the front porch unannounced to try to talk me out of 20 lempira to go buy something to drink
(surely calaguala – a local alcoholic/hallucinogenic drink made out of an
epiphytic fern rhizome). He’s not happy that I refuse him 15 times. So at the
end he decides to just curse and leave. Javier just laughs. I laugh too, more
out of frustration than amusement. I finally get back inside to kiss my little daughter good night and actually communicate with my wife about her day!
Another day… now the night begins.
Look for a future
blog post on what happens here at night.
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